Some silks should be dry cleaned(notably Dupioni) but most can be handwashed, especially if you wash the fabric before sewing. Dry cleaning gets more expensive every day, and the smell of perc (the dry cleaning fluid) in our clothes is not our favorite fragrance. And worst of all, silk begins to look dingy and dull after just a few trips to the dry cleaners. Many silks look better and last longer when hand washed. But beware, many inexpensive and poorly woven silks may fade, become  stiff, change texture or lose their sheen when hand washed. Try a test piece in a series of launderings before spending a lot of time and effort in any project.

      Exceptions                            Warning!                              Pre-Shrinking

      Routine hand washing          Why Silk shrinks                 Stain Removal

Exceptions

Silk Noil MAY shrink noticeably in handwashing (how much depends on the weave), and should absolutely be pre-shrunk before being sewn up to minimize shrinkage in   the final garment. Silk Noil may be machine dried, but this will increase shrinkage and should definitely be done before being cut and sewn.

Silk Dupioni can be handwashed, and launders beautifully; however, it changes the  texture and sheen of the fabric. Hand wash a small scrap or swatch and check to see  if you like the way it looks. We wash all our dupioni that is custom dyed, and it has a much softer texture, very different than the crisp finish it has off the bolt.

Warning!

When hand washing a ready-to-wear silk garment, make a wash test on an  inconspicuous part of the garment, the inside back of a hem, for example. Nothing in this document should be considered a recommendation or guarantee of success. Here's how it has worked for us;  

Pre shrinking

Silk Crepe, Noil, 2 ply silk and dupioni shrink the most and should be pre-shrunk before  sewing up. Place the silk in a sink or tub full of lukewarm water and mild soap. We like  Ivory Snow (powder), some people swear by Woolite, some people like Orvus Quilt Soap  (available at some Quilt stores as well as many Equestrian Saddle and Tack shops!) and some even use their favorite shampoo. Whatever you use, follow the package directions. Rub the silk fabric for a few minutes in the soapy solution and drain. Rinse in clear, cool water until all the soap is gone (don't wring, silk becomes weaker when wet!). Fold the garment flat and roll up in a towel (like a cinnamon roll) to remove excess water overnight. Remove from the towel and iron dry with a medium-low setting. You can dry silk Noil in the dryer, but it shrinks more.

Routine hand washing

Soak the garment in lukewarm water and a mild soap solution (see pre-shrinking, above).  Rinse in clear, cool water until all the soap is gone. then fill the sink again and add a  quarter cup of white vinegar to the final rinse. Vinegar neutralizes any remaining soap, and allows it to rinse out completely restoring the fabric's natural sheen, it can make a  dramatic difference. Give the fabric a final rinse in clear, cool water to remove the vinegar smell. Roll up in a towel to remove moisture, then dry flat on a towel or on a padded hanger. Iron with a low-medium temp iron while still slightly  damp.

Why Silk shrinks

Silk fiber is a protein, like your hair, and it does not itself shrink. The way the individual fibers are twisted together when weaving is what causes silk to shrink. Highly twisted yarns and loose weaves cause shrinking when water releases twisting energy in the fibers. It's a bit like twisting a rubber band then reducing the length, seeing it bunch up. Silk bunches up the same way. Ready to wear silk garments shrink because manufacturers don't go to the trouble of washing the fabric first. Imagine that

Stain Removal

A word of caution: The stain removal methods contained herein have been collected from a variety of sources, but we have not personally ested them all. Therefore, Silk Road and its staff cannot be responsible for the results you achieve. The suggestions below are just that: Suggestions. However; if you find a better method that works, let us know and we'll add  it       in.The general treatment regime is to test one of these method on an inconspicuous area first, or consult a professional dry cleaner. One other general piece of advice: drip dry all garments after each attempt at stain removal. Spots that may not be visible when wet can show up and be permanently set by the heat of a dryer.

Treatment for Individual Stains

Acids

You must act quickly because strong acids (like battery acid) can damage fibers quickly. Splash with water immediately, then sprinkle the stain with baking soda, rub in, and allow to stand a few minutes until bubbling stops. Rinse well in warm water. Alternatively, hold the dampened stain over an open bottle of household ammonia so that the fumes can neutralize the acid  Rinse well.

Adhesive Tape

Sponge or soak the dry fabric stain with a suitable laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover) or in a grease solvent or kerosene. Kerosene will make the cloth oily, so if used, must be followed by washing in warm soapy water.

Alcohol: Whisky, vermouth, etc.

Always treat these as soon as possible. Often stains are almost colorless at first, but turn brown on standing, washing and ironing. Fresh stains can be removed by sponging several times with warm water. If there is any mark left, pour glycerine on the dampened stain, rub lightly between the hands and leave for half an hour. Rinse in warm water.

Stubborn stains may be sponged with equal quantities of denatured alcohol (or wood alcohol) and ammonia (test on colors first) or laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover). Rinse well in warm water. If any stain is left on white material, a laundry bleach may be used, if appropriate. Choose and use your bleach according to instructions given earlier.

Alkali and Strong bases

Alkali, such as caustic soda, strong ammonia, or alkali cuticle remover, may destroy color and rot material. Rinse at once in equal quantities of vinegar and water. Rinse well in warm water. If color has been affected this cannot be corrected.

Ball-Point Ink

See under 'Ink' for stain removal suggestions. If you are sure it is Ball-point (not roller ball) ink, then first, saturate material with an alcohol-based hair spray (this seems to be a very popular method). The alcohol content in the hair spray will break up the ink. Be sure to place an absorbent paper towel or rag under the stain to catch the excess. You then need to blot the stain with a rag. Repeat the process until the stain is removed, then launder as usual. A word of caution before trying this method: some fabrics may be damaged by the hair spray solution. If in doubt, test on an inconspicuous area first, or consult with a professional dry cleaner.

Baby Oil

Rub some dishwashing liquid into the stain, leave for 10-15 minutes, then wash in hot water using your normal laundry detergent. If any stain remains, repeat the process.  For unwashable fabrics or articles, see under 'Butter'.

Bleach

Flood immediately with lots of cold water. For chlorine bleach, add 1 Tbsp. vinegar in each cup of water. If the color has been removed by the bleach, it cannot readily be restored, but try holding in fumes from an open bottle of ammonia.

Blood

If fresh, sponge with cool salted water (1 spoon per cup water) and rinse with clear water
Should stain persist, soak in a diaper wash/sanitizer from the supermarket that contains sodium percarbonate - read the diaper wash/sanitizer label for the chemical make-up of the product (may state sodium carbonate peroxohydrate or oxygenated bleach). Or you can try any of the following suggestions:

* Dilute hydrogen peroxide (1 part : 9 parts water). Purchase the strongest solution available from a pharmacy - usually "20 Volume". Rinse well. Careful, strong solutions of hydrogen peroxide can bleach fabrics.
* Sponge with a lukewarm 10% solution of Oxalic Acid for a few minutes, then rinse well. You can get this from the hardware store paint department or a pharmacy.
Sponge with dilute ammonia (1 spoon per cup) Rinse well.
* For thick or unwashable articles, e.g. mattresses, carpets, etc., sponge lightly with one of the above solutions. If the stains are still fresh, and the police have left, sprinkle with pepsin powder (from your pharmacy), or spread with a thick paste of raw laundry starch and water, leave to dry, then brush off. Repeat if necessary.

Bluing (laundry bluing)

Rinse fresh stains in cold water. Soak any more difficult stains in a solution 1 spoon of vinegar in a quart of warm water. Wash as usual.

Butter & Animal fat Stains

Wash in warm sudsy water if a washable fabric. If not, sponge dry fabric with a grease solvent, e.g. laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover) or dry cleaning fluid.On upholstery and carpets, use an absorbent powder treatment (cornstarch is worth a try), followed by a shampoo with liquid detergent, such as a Carpet/Rug Shampoo, a good quality laundry liquid or Quilt/Wool Wash. Avoid wetting backing of carpet or fabric, or discoloration occurs. Do not use petroleum solvents, or dry cleaning fluid on carpets or fabrics with rubberized backing.

On wallpaper, scrape off as much as possible, then use warm iron and absorbent paper. Treat remaining stain with paste of cornstarch and a dry cleaning fluid. Allow to dry, brush off, and repeat if necessary.

Candle Wax

Scrape off most of the wax. This can be facilitated by placing the fabric in the freezer and making the wax brittle.

For the remaining wax, place the stained surface down on a clean white rag and spray with WD-40 (a light oil available at hardware stores), let stand a few minutes, turn fabric over and spray the other side. Apply liquid dishwashing detergent and work into the stained area, moving the rag as it absorbs the stain. Wash in hot water with laundry detergent and bleach (if appropriate) for about 15 minutes (use heavy soiled setting if there is no minute timer on your machine) and rinse in warm water. Drip dry and check for residual stain.

In the case of colored wax there may still be a color stain. Sponge with a liquid made by adding a half cup of denatured alcohol to a half cup of water.

Carbon Paper & black soot

On washable fabrics heavy suds of soap and water are usually successful. Otherwise, sponge over a pad with denatured alcohol, followed with a cold water sponge.

Chewing Gum

Scrape or peel away as much as possible first. Rubbing the stain with ice will harden the gum and make this easier, especially on rugs and other heavy materials. Then follow the procedure under Candle Wax, above.

If the material is washable, sponge with kerosene and wash in hot soapy water. For unwashable articles, use dry cleaning fluid. Several applications may be necessary.

Chocolate

First scrape off as much as possible with a dull knife. Scrub washable articles with an old toothbrush and hot soapy water. If a brown spot remains, soak in a solution of a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate followed by a good rinse in warm water.

For unwashable materials, sponge with dry cleaning fluid. Allow to dry. Repeat as necessary with a clean rag underneath. If a stain remains, sponge with equal quantities of denatured alcohol and household ammonia (test on colors first). Follow with a warm water rinse. A spray-on dry cleaner may be used.

Coffee & Tea

Remove fresh stains from cotton and linen materials by first rinsing in warm water then pouring boiling water from a height of 2 - 3 feet onto the stain. Follow by washing in hot soapy water. If a trace remains, bleach white garments in the sun, or with a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate. Tea stains on cottons and linens can also be removed by soaking in borax and water (1 Tbsp. borax per cup of warm water).

Stains on wool and silk or any fabric may be sponged with lukewarm water, then apply glycerine, rubbing lightly between the hands. Let stand for half an hour. Rinse with warm water. If a grease spot remains from cream, sponge with dry cleaning fluid.

Crayons

Place the stained surface down on a clean white cotton rag, spray with WD-40 (a light oil available at hardware stores), let stand a few minutes, turn fabric over and spray the other side. Apply liquid dishwashing detergent and work into the stained area, moving the rag as it absorbs the stain. Wash in hot water with laundry detergent and bleach (if appropriate) for about 15 minutes (use heavy soiled setting if there is no minute timer on your machine) and rinse in warm water. Kids throw a crayon into the dryer? Clean the inside drum of your dryer to remove any remaining wax residue. Spray a soft cloth with WD-40, and wipe the drum. Run a load of dry rags through a drying cycle to ensure that your drum is clean. Jump to Crayola's Stain Removal Tips for helpful hints on removing other art material stains from clothes, walls and other tough spots!

Deodorant Stains

(See also 'Perspiration Stains', below). Sponge stain thoroughly with a laundry pre-soak or spot stain remover and warm water. Rinse. If some stain remains in whites, use a chlorinated laundry bleach or a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate. Antiperspirants may cause fabric damage and color damage in some dyes. Color can sometimes be restored by sponging with ammonia. Dilute ammonia with an equal volume of water for use on wool or silk. Rinse well.

Dyes & Color runs

Flood immediately with lots of water. These are difficult to remove and no one treatment is successful in all cases.

Washing and sun bleaching will gradually bring results in some cases. Equal parts of denatured alcohol and ammonia may also succeed. White fabrics may be bleached. Use a chlorinated laundry bleach or a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate for linens and untreated cottons, hydrogen peroxide for silk, wool and delicate fabrics.

Egg

Scrape away as much as possible. Sponge with lukewarm water immediately. Never use hot water, as heat sets the albumin. If this does not succeed, spread the stain with a paste of cream of tartar and water, adding a crushed aspirin to the paste. Leave for 20 - 30 minutes. Rinse well in warm water. OR use a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate.

Fruit & Berry stains

Fresh stains are easy to remove, but once dry, they are very obstinate. Treat immediately with cool water and follow up, if necessary, by soaking in a chlorinated laundry bleach or a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate. Rinse.White cottons and linens may be stretched over a basin and boiling water poured through from a height. Any remaining stain may be removed with chlorinated laundry bleach.colored fabrics or washable silk, etc., may be soaked in a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate or a warm borax solution (1 Tbsp. per cup of water), or covered with a paste of cream of tartar and warm water. Leave half and hour or until stain goes, then rinse well.

For persistent stains apply equal quantities of denatured alcohol and ammonia. Rinse well after treatment. This method is safe for all fabrics, except triacetate. Dilute mixture with an equal quantity of water for fabrics with fugitive dyes. Old stains may be softened in glycerine before treatment. Damp stain, apply glycerine, leave 1 - 2 hours, then add a few drops of vinegar, leave 5 - 10 minutes and rinse well.

Gasoline

Blot out as much as possible with a clean white rag. Place stain on a clean, white cotton rag. Spray with WD-40 (available at hardware stores), and rub from the top with another clean rag. Flip over and spray stain from other side. Treat the edges of the WD-40 circle the same way to remove as much migrated material as possible. Soak in an enzyme pre-soak and then launder as usual. Drip dry and evaluate before putting in dryer.
For dry clean only materials, take to the dry cleaners as soon as possible..

Glues, Gums & Cellulose Adhesives

Soaking in cool water will remove water-soluble glues, e.g. Elmer's, and most wood glue. For waterproof glues, use denatured alcohol, MEK or amyl acetate (test before using on synthetic fabrics). Artificial Fingernail glue can be removed used acetone (test on an inconspicuous area first). Acetone evaporates quickly, so hold a wad of absorbent paper or soft cloth against the glue, and soak the acetate through from the other side. (The glue soaks on to the wad of absorbent)

Grass Stains

Soak in a solution of a chlorinated laundry bleach or a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate. OR sponge with methylated spirits (wood alcohol). Remove this with warm water and where possible wash the article using Laundry powder or Liquid.

Milk & Ice Cream

For washable materials, first sponge with lukewarm water, then wash as usual. If the material is not washable, sponge with dry cleaning fluid then with cold water.

Ink

Because INKS differ in composition it is impossible to find removers that are equally effective for all types of ink spots. The following is a range of suggestions from which you can choose. Dry the stained area. Mix together 3 parts dishwash liquid with 1 part of denatured alcohol. Soak the stained area in this solution for 10-15 minutes. After the soak time, rinse in water as hot as is suitable for the fabric, then wash as usual. Drip dry and evaluate. This treatment may require repeating.

Other treatments you can try include the following..

Ballpoint Pen Ink: First, saturate material with an alcohol-based hair spray (this seems to be a very popular method). The alcohol content in the hair spray will break up the ink. Be sure to place an absorbent paper towel or rag under the stain to catch the excess. You then need to blot the stain with a rag. Repeat the process until the stain is removed, then launder as usual. A word of caution before trying this method: some fabrics may be damaged by the hair spray solution. If in doubt, test on an inconspicuous area first, or consult with a professional dry cleaner.

Water Based Inks (roller ball, felt tip): Try an all-purpose cleaner like '409' instead of hair spray. Be sure to place an absorbent paper towel or rag under the stain to catch the excess. You then need to blot the stain with a rag. Repeat the process until the stain is removed, then launder as usual.

NOTE: If the stain is still wet, apply an absorbent - talcum powder, starch or salt - to absorb excess ink and stop it from spreading. Continue this treatment, removing the discolored powder and applying fresh, until there no further change is achieved. Alternatively, take up excess ink with blotting paper, pressing fresh patches of blotter into the stain until it no longer discolors. Then treat as required.

These suggestions are also suitable for dried writing ink, ball point pen, or marking ink. Soak the stain in "sour" milk - this is an old fashioned, but effective method. Fresh milk also works, but sour milk is faster. to make sour milk, set a cup outside for several hours. Sponge or dip the stain in equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and household ammonia (test on colored fabrics first). Rinse in warm water. Rinse again in warm water containing a little ammonia, then finally in fresh water. Sponge with denatured alcohol. If not effective, try dry cleaning fluid.

Iodine, Methiolate

Very fresh stains can often be removed by normal washing or by moistening the stain with water and placing in the sun. If not successful, apply a solution of 1 tsp. sodium thiosulphate, (from chemist) in 1 cup warm water. Rinse well.

Lipstick & Makeup

e.g. eyeshadow, mascara, etc. - washing with your usual laundry product may remove these stains. Pre treat the dry fabric stain with a laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover). On an unwashable fabric, try a discreet dry cleaners.

If stains are stubborn, sponge with equal quantities of denatured alcohol and household ammonia. (Test on colored fabrics first). If color fades, reduce ammonia by half and test again. Rinse in warm water, or wash if possible.

Medicines

Try to find out from doctor or pharmacist what the medicine contains, as this will aid in selecting the correct treatment: e.g. iron tonics - treat as for iron rust: medicines containing alcohol, rinse with denatured alcohol, etc.

Mildew

Treat as soon as discovered, before the mould has time to weaken the cloth. Slight, fresh stains can often be removed by washing with your usual laundry product and drying in the sun. Otherwise, try these methods in turn, proceeding carefully with colored articles:
Chlorinated laundry bleaches may be used for white untreated cottons and linens, 2 tablespoons per gallon should do it. Rinse thoroughly before washing. Vinegar added to the final rinse will help remove any traces of smell remaining from the bleach.
A diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate should be safe on all white and colored fabrics.

Motor Oil & Grease

See Oil & Grease, below.

Mud

Allow to dry, then brush or scrape off. Any remaining stain may be removed by washing or sponging with your usual laundry powder, or if this is greasy dirt, pre-treat dry fabric with a laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover) or use a dry cleaning fluid.

Mustard

Scrape any excess mustard from the fabric, ensuring you don't spread the stain any further. Dry the mustard-stained area. Mix together 3 parts dishwash liquid with 1 part of denatured alcohol. Soak the stained area in this solution for 10-15 minutes. NOTE: On occasion the mustard stain will turn very dark, but DON'T PANIC - it will wash out! After the soak time, rinse in water as hot as is suitable for the fabric, then wash as usual, but preferably with a Laundry Liquid. This treatment may require repeating.

Nail Polish

Apply acetone, MEK or nail polish remover, but take care with synthetics, as these may dissolve some type of rayons. Wash or sponge with your usual laundry product after treatment.

Remove any remaining color with a bleach, using a chlorinated laundry bleach for white cottons and linens. A diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate for colors, and hydrogen peroxide for wool and silks.

Oils, light: sewing machine, cooking oil, baby oil etc.

Rub some dishwashing liquid into the stain, leave for 10-15 minutes, then wash in hot water using your normal laundry detergent. If any stain remains, repeat the process. For unwashable fabrics or articles, see under Butter.

For tencel, try soaking in an enzymatic presoak before washing. Our customers report good success with a product called 'Oil Eater' from KAKFO; call (800) 528 0334.

Oil & Grease

Scrape away as much as possible with a spoon. Place stain on a clean, white cotton rag. Spray with WD-40 (available at hardware stores), and rub from the top with another clean rag. Flip over and spray stain from other side. Continue to flip, spray, rub and move to a clean area of the rag until the stain is removed. Treat the edges of the WD-40 circle the same way to remove as much migrated material as possible. Soak in an enzyme pre-soak and then launder as usual. Drip dry and evaluate before putting in dryer.

Another method is to use a mechanics hand cleaner (available at auto parts stores), gently rubbing it into the stain with a tooth brush. Follow with an enzyme pre-soak and then launder as usual. Drip dry and evaluate before putting in dryer.
For dry clean materials, treat with WD-40 as above, and take to the dry cleaners. Tell them you were greasing your 1956 Pickup..

Ointment

Treat as a grease stain - see under Butter, above.

Paint

Paint varies greatly in composition and it is not possible to give one treatment for all types. As a guide, use the solvent suggested on the paint can label for thinning paint and cleaning brushes. Treat promptly, as set stains are very difficult to remove. If paint has dried, soften with glycerine before applying treatment.

For oil paint, enamels and alkyd type paints, scrape off as much as possible and spray with WD-40 or soak in turpentine, or kerosene. Then wash in usual way.

Latex and water-base paints will wash out easily with soapy water when fresh. Remove any remaining color stain with denatured alcohol. (test first to see that acetate fabrics are not affected). Once dry, these paints are virtually impossible to remove.

Pencil Marks

Try a soft eraser for unwashable garments. Use a quality laundry powder or liquid on lead pencil marks, but never for Permanent marker. If not successful, follow instructions for Permanent Marker.

For colored pencils, place the stained surface on clean rag, spray with WD-40, let stand a few minutes, turn fabric over and spray the other side. Apply liquid dishwashing detergent and work into the stained area, replacing towelling as it absorbs the stain. Wash in hot water with laundry detergent and bleach for about 12 minutes (use heavy soiled setting if there is no minute timer on your machine) and rinse in warm water.

Perfume stains

Wet area, apply glycerine and rinse out well, or sponge with equal parts of full-strength hydrogen peroxide (on whites) and water. If the color has already been removed from the fabric by the alcohol in the perfume, it may be helpful to add a few drops of denatured alcohol to cheesecloth pad and sponge fabric lightly, working towards the centre of the stain, thus distributing remaining color evenly.

Permanent markers

Do not use water as this spreads the stain. Sponge over a pad of soft cloth, using equal quantities of denatured alcohol) and household ammonia (test colored fabrics first). Should the colors run, try denatured alcohol) alone. Rinse or sponge with warm water.

Perspiration Stains

New perspiration stains are normally acid and may be removed by washing. If the fabric dye is affected, hold the mark in fumes from an open ammonia bottle to try to restore the color.

Older perspiration stains turn alkaline and sponging with 1 Tbsp. vinegar in a half cup of water will often restore the color. This treatment also helps to remove perspiration odors.

To remove perspiration stains from unwashable garments or for any stubborn marks, apply a paste of 1 Tbsp. cream of tartar, 3 crushed aspirins and a cup of warm water. Leave for 20 minutes. Rinse well in warm water. Repeat if necessary. Follow this with vinegar and water to restore the color if necessary.

Rust (Special thanks to Lois Lane for these tips)

Any of the methods given below are safe for white fabrics, but test on colored fabrics before use.

Lemon Juice - suitable for light stains on delicate fabrics. Spread stain over a bowl of boiling water and sprinkle with lemon juice. After a few minutes, rinse well and repeat if necessary.

Lemon Juice and Salt - sprinkle stain with salt, rub with lemon juice and place in sunlight. Keep moist with lemon juice till stain goes. Rinse well.

Cream of Tartar - (a powder, available in your grocery store spice section) for extensive staining, boil in a solution of 3 tsp. cream of tartar per cup of water. Rinse well OR if less extensive, dampen stain, spread with cream of tartar, hold in steam from boiling kettle. Rinse immediately stain goes. Do not use on fabrics that cannot be washed in hot water.

Scorch Marks

Scorch marks on cellulosic fibers (cotton, linen and tencel) are different from true stains in that the actual fibers are damaged. Severe marks on any fabric, and scorch marks on wool and silk can seldom be restored. Brushing with fine emery paper may improve a scorched woollen surface.

Very light scorch marks can often be removed by immediate washing with your usual laundry product, followed by a day in the sun. Alternatively, sponge with 1 Tbsp. borax in 1 cup of warm water.

Light scorch marks on white materials can be bleached with hydrogen peroxide. Dampen a rag of white cotton cloth with hydrogen peroxide and lay it covering the mark. Cover with a clean dry cloth, then press with a medium warm iron. If the peroxide soaks through the top cloth, move to a dry position. Repeat the treatment until the stain is removed. Rinse well in warm water.

Light scorch marks on any fabric (test colors first) may be treated by sponging with diluted hydrogen peroxide to which a few drops of ammonia have been added. Rinse well in warm water.

Shoe Polish

Sponge with a laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover) or with dry cleaning fluid.

Silly Putty

Scrape off the excess with a spoon or blunt knife, then spray the surface to be cleaned with WD-40 and wipe clean with a soft cloth. If any stain remains, saturate a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol, blot the stain and rinse. Wipe any remaining residue with a damp sponge or cloth moistened with liquid dishwashing detergent.

Skunk Smell

If you or your clothing gets sprayed by a skunk, wash with carbolic soap to remove the skunk oil (Ewww!) or alternatingly in tomato juice and then vinegar. Work on hair too. Commercial smell removers are available like "Skunk-off" aerosol, or "Nil-Odor" available through your Vet Clinic. Clothes may have to be discarded, although in less severe cases they may be salvaged by repeatedly washing in vinegar water and hanging outside for about a month. Launder clothes in cool water as hot water causes oil to break down and stink up the laundry room.

Soft Drinks

Pre-treat with a laundry pre-soak prior to washing with a your usual laundry detergent in the usual way. Alternative treatment: sponge with equal quantities of denatured alcohol) and water. Old or obstinate stains may be softened in glycerine before treatment as above.

Soot & Smoke

First treat with an absorbent powder like cornstarch, then wash. For unwashable articles sponge with dry cleaning fluid or other grease solvent, followed by airing to remove smell of smoke.

For carpets, mix solvent to a paste with cornstarch, talcum or french chalk. Apply thickly - leave to dry, then brush or vacuum off. Repeat if necessary. Never use solvents on rubber backed carpeting.

Soy Sauce

Dry the soya sauce-stained area. Mix together 3 parts dishwash liquid with 1 part denatured alcohol. Soak the stained area in this solution for 10-15 minutes. After the soak time, rinse in water as hot as is suitable for the fabric, then wash as usual, but preferably with a Laundry Liquid. This treatment may require repeating.

Tar & Asphalt

Scrape  away  as much as possible with a spoon or dull knife. Place stain on an old cotton rag. Spray with WD-40 (available at hardware stores), and rub from the top with another clean rag. Flip over and spray stain from other side. Continue to rub and move to a clean area of the rag until the stain is removed. Magic! Treat the edges of the WD-40 circle the same way to remove  as  much  migrated  material  as  possible. Soak in an enzyme pre-soak and then launder as  usual. Drip  dry and evaluate before putting in dryer.
For dry clean materials, treat with WD-40 as above, and take to the dry cleaners.

Tarnish Stains (from Brass or silver)

Metallic stains from belts, jewellery, etc., sometimes stain clothes. Sponge with vinegar, lemon juice or 10% solution acetic acid (check synthetics first).

For tarnished metallic fabrics, e.g. lamé, boil in salt water (2 Tbsp. per cup). Not suitable for synthetics. Otherwise, sponge with denatured alcohol or try dry cleaning fluid.

Tobacco Stains

For stubborn tobacco stains, first try pouring glycerine over the stain. Rub lightly between 

the hands, or pre-treat the dry fabric with a laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover), leave 

for half an hour then wash in the usual way. If this is not successful, use sodium thiosulphate as directed for iodine stains.

Tomato Stains

Sponge thoroughly with cold water first. Pour glycerine over, rub lightly between the hands and leave for half an hour. Or, pre-treat the dry fabric with a laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover), leave for half an hour then wash in the usual way. Rinse in warm water. Remove any remaining stain with a chlorinated laundry bleach or a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate, as directed.

Whiteout (Liquid Paper) (Liquid Correction Fluid)

Purchase some Spray & Wipe from your supermarket, and use concentrated on the stain. Most Spray & Wipe formula’s contain a solvent which will dissolve the liquid paper. OR Try a little xylene, or toluene on the stain, with some good absorbent paper or old cloth behind it. Then use some dishwash liquid or a good quality laundry liquid to wash out the solvent. Always test an inconspicuous piece of material before proceeding.

Stains of Unknown Origin (Not applicable in Roswell, NM)

If a stain cannot be identified, treat with cool water first, then sponge with a good quality laundry liquid solution. Rinse well and if stain persists try equal quantities of denatured alcohol and ammonia, testing first to note effect on color and fabric. If color is affected, omit ammonia. As a last resort, try a mild bleach, e.g. A diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate.

Urine

These stains differ in composition, so that the same method may not be successful in all cases. Normal urine is usually acid. First soak in a solution of a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate or sponge with a solution of 1 Tbsp. household ammonia in a half cup of warm water. Rinse well.

If this is not successful, try equal quantities of vinegar and warm water in case the stain is alkaline. Rinse well in warm water. For stubborn stains, sponge with diluted hydrogen peroxide, then wash or sponge - rinse with clear warm water. Old stains may destroy the color of the cloth and nothing can be done to restore it in this case.

Vomit

Scrape away as much as possible. Sponge stains with warm water containing a little ammonia. If extensive, dampen and sprinkle with pepsin powder (from the pharmacy), leave half an hour, then rinse off. OR soak washable articles in a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate. Commercial carpet cleaners may work.

Water Spots

Some silks (organza, notably), rayons and wools are spotted by water. To remove such spots, hold in the steam from a rapidly boiling kettle. It is wise to cover the spout with muslin first to prevent any droplets of water reaching the fabric. Allow the fabric to become damp, but not wet. Shake and press while still slightly damp, rubbing, if possible, with a piece of the same or a similar material, or with fingernail or spoon.

Water stains on carpets become brown because of impurities from backing or underfelt. Mop up spills, wipe with cool water, cover with pad of blotting paper, tissues or absorbent cloth. Weight down with books, etc., and dry quickly with the aid of fan heaters, vacuum exhaust, etc. This causes stain to wick through to absorbent material. Repeat if required.

Wine

Red Wine? Immediately pour club soda or White Wine on the affected area and soak up. Then wash in cold water and ammonia.White Wine? Club soda rinse, then wash in cold water and ammonia. If unsuccessful, follow other treatments under Alcoholic Beverages, above.

Wood SAP